Calculate Your Solar Savings

Is Solar Worth It Where You Live?

Here's what I tell people: If you're paying more than $100/month for electricity, solar probably makes sense. If you're paying $150+, it's a no-brainer.

But there's a catch. Your specific economics depend on three things: how much sun your roof gets, what your utility charges per kilowatt-hour, and whether your state has decent net metering. This calculator factors in all three.

What Goes Into These Numbers?

Real question: How does a free online calculator know what solar costs in your area?

We use your ZIP code to pull actual sun hours from NREL (National Renewable Energy Laboratory), your utility's rates, and typical installation costs for your region. Not perfect, but way more accurate than "solar saves everyone $20,000."

System Size Matters

Your system size is calculated to offset your current usage. If you use 1,000 kWh per month, we size a system to produce roughly that much. Simple.

Want to go bigger? You can. But unless you're adding an EV or heat pump, oversizing doesn't usually improve economics—you just export more to the grid for less money than you paid to generate it.

The 30% Federal Tax Credit

This is huge. The IRA (Inflation Reduction Act) gives you 30% back as a tax credit. $20,000 system? You get $6,000 back at tax time.

But here's the thing: It's a tax credit, not a rebate. You need to owe at least that much in federal taxes to claim it. If you only owe $3,000 in taxes, you can only claim $3,000 that year (though you can carry forward the rest).

Payback Period vs. ROI

Payback = how long until savings equal your net cost. ROI = total return over the system's life.

I care more about payback. If it's under 7 years, that's solid. Under 5? Jump on it. Over 10? You're betting on electricity rates rising a lot, and that's not guaranteed.

What About Shading?

This kills more solar deals than anything else. If your roof has trees shading it 4+ hours per day, your production drops 30-50%. The math stops working.

The calculator asks about shading. Be honest. "Partial shade" means some tree coverage in morning or afternoon. "Heavy shade" means your roof is mostly covered. If you're not sure, ask a local installer to do a shade analysis—it's usually free.

Common Questions I Get

What if I'm moving in 5 years?

Studies show solar adds about 4% to home value—roughly equal to your net cost. So you won't lose money, but you won't make much either. Solar is a better investment if you're staying 8+ years.

Should I lease or buy?

Buy. Always buy. Leases lock you into 20-year contracts, make selling your home harder, and capture most of the savings themselves. If you can't afford to buy outright, get a solar loan—you'll still come out way ahead of leasing.

Do I need batteries?

Not unless you want backup power for outages or your utility has time-of-use rates. Batteries add $10,000-15,000 to the cost and have their own payback calculation. For most people, grid-tied solar without batteries is the right move.

What about my HOA?

Most states have "solar access laws" that prevent HOAs from blocking solar installations. They can require aesthetic guidelines (like black panels instead of blue), but they can't say no outright. Check your state's laws before assuming you're blocked.

How long do solar panels actually last?

25-30 years for panels, 10-15 for inverters. Most manufacturers guarantee 80-85% production at year 25. You'll likely need one inverter replacement around year 12-15 ($2,000-3,000), but that's factored into long-term economics.