The federal energy tax credits have expired

Costs and payback figures on this page may still assume a federal credit that no longer exists. The 30% Residential Clean Energy Credit (25D) and the Energy Efficient Home Improvement Credit (25C) both ended for property placed in service after 31 December 2025, and the home EV charger credit (30C) ended after 30 June 2026. Assume no federal credit on work done today.

What expired, and what still exists →

Electrical panel load calculator

Works out whether your existing service carries the load you are about to add, using the NEC 220.83 optional calculation for an existing dwelling. Every line of the worksheet is shown with the code section it comes from, so you can check it rather than take our word for it.

Your home
What you have now
What you want to add

Calculated load

97.0 A

23,272 VA at 240 V, calculated under 220.83(A)

Your existing service100 A
Headroom+3.0 A
Service used97%
Smallest service that carries this100 A

It fits, but with little margin. At 97% there is not much room for the next thing you electrify, which is worth raising with the electrician while the panel is already open.

The worksheet

General lighting and receptacles (1,800 sq ft x 3 VA)NEC 220.125,400 VA
Small appliance branch circuits (2 x 1,500 VA)NEC 210.11(C)(1), 220.52(A)3,000 VA
Laundry branch circuitNEC 210.11(C)(2), 220.52(B)1,500 VA
Electric range or cooktopNEC 220.83, nameplate12,000 VA
Electric clothes dryerNEC 220.83, nameplate5,500 VA
Electric water heaterNEC 220.83, nameplate4,500 VA
DishwasherNEC 220.83, nameplate1,200 VA
Garbage disposalNEC 220.83, nameplate900 VA
MicrowaveNEC 220.83, nameplate1,000 VA
New EV chargerNEC 220.83, nameplate7,680 VA
Existing air conditioningNEC 220.83, nameplate3,500 VA
First 8,000 VA of remaining load at 100%8,000 VA
Remainder at 40% (38,180 VA)15,272 VA
Calculated load23,272 VA

No heating or cooling is being added, so 220.83(A) applies: the first 8,000 VA of the total load counts at 100% and the remainder at 40%.

What this does not know

This is the code's arithmetic, not an inspection. A load calculation is one of several reasons a panel gets replaced, and often not the deciding one. It cannot see:

  • whether there is physical space for another breaker
  • the condition of the service entrance, meter base and grounding
  • aluminium branch wiring, or a panel that takes no AFCI or GFCI breakers
  • whether the utility transformer and drop can carry the new draw
  • local amendments to the NEC, which routinely change the answer

A licensed electrician decides. What this gives you is the number to check their quote against, and the vocabulary to ask why if it differs. How we source this.

Want us to look at your specific situation?

Tell us what you are dealing with and we will come back to you. Being straight about what this is: we are building toward introducing homeowners to local electricians and we are not there yet, so right now this reaches us and nobody else.

We are not currently sharing your details with any contractor, and there is no installer network behind this site. Your information is stored only so we can reply to this request. If that ever changes you will be asked again, on a form that names exactly who would receive it, before anything is sent.

If your panel is one of these, load is not your problem

Some panels get replaced regardless of what the calculation says, because the equipment itself is the issue. If the label inside your panel door reads one of these, that is the conversation to have first.

Federal Pacific Electric

Also labelled FPE, Stab-Lok · installed roughly 1950 to 1990

Stab-Lok breakers have been found to fail to trip under overload or short circuit conditions at rates far above other equipment. A breaker that does not trip leaves the overload to the wiring.

Insurers frequently decline to write or renew a policy on a home with an FPE panel, and home inspectors flag it at sale. Many owners find out at the point of a policy renewal or a pending sale, which is why this tends to be urgent rather than optional.

US Consumer Product Safety Commission

Zinsco

Also labelled GTE-Sylvania Zinsco, Sylvania · installed roughly 1950 to 1970

Breakers can melt to the bus bar, so the breaker appears to be off while the circuit remains energised, and can fail to trip on a fault.

Same insurance and inspection exposure as FPE. Replacement breakers are no longer manufactured, so a failed breaker generally means replacing the panel rather than the part.

US Consumer Product Safety Commission

Challenger

Also labelled Challenger Electrical Equipment · installed roughly 1980 to 1990

Overheating at the breaker-to-bus connection, and a documented history of breakers failing to trip.

Flagged in inspections. Parts availability is poor, so repairs often turn into replacement.

US Consumer Product Safety Commission

Pushmatic

Also labelled Bulldog Pushmatic, ITE Pushmatic · installed roughly 1950 to 1980

Not associated with the same failure-to-trip record as the others, but the breakers age poorly, stiffen and become unreliable, and there is no AFCI or GFCI equipment available for these panels.

Usually a capacity and modernisation problem rather than an immediate safety recall. Adding any circuit that current code requires to be AFCI or GFCI protected means replacing the panel.

NFPA 70, National Electrical Code

We are not electricians and this is not a substitute for an inspection. If you think you have one of these, an electrician can confirm it from the label in minutes, and your insurer may already have a view.

Do You Actually Need a Panel Upgrade?

The short version: If you're planning to electrify your home, you probably need a bigger panel.

Most homes built before 2000 have 100-amp or 150-amp panels. That was fine when all you had was lights, a fridge, and maybe an AC unit. But add a heat pump (30-60 amps), EV charger (40-50 amps), and electric range (40-50 amps)? The math stops working.

How Much Does a Panel Upgrade Actually Cost?

Real talk: It varies wildly.

Quotes for a standard 100A to 200A upgrade run from $1,500 to $4,000. What drives the cost? Distance from the meter to the panel, whether you need a new meter base, if your utility requires service upgrades outside your house, and local permitting costs. Oh, and whether your panel is buried behind drywall or sitting in an open basement.

100A to 200A Upgrade

This is the most common upgrade. Around $2,000-3,000 in most areas.

You get double the capacity, which is usually enough for full electrification (heat pump, EV charger, induction range) unless you have a massive home or want multiple EV chargers.

100A to 400A Upgrade

Overkill for most homes. But if you're running a home workshop, charging two EVs, and adding a pool heater? Maybe necessary.

Costs $3,500-5,000+ because the wire, panel, and meter base are all significantly bigger. Your utility may also charge more for the higher service level.

Can You Avoid Upgrading?

Sometimes, yes. There are workarounds.

Load-Sharing Devices

Smart panels or load controllers (like SPAN or Lumin) can manage which heavy loads run simultaneously. Your EV charges at night when the heat pump isn't running hard. Costs $2,000-3,500 installed, which is comparable to a panel upgrade—but you avoid the permitting hassle and keep your existing panel.

Just... Not Running Everything at Once

Honestly? If you're borderline on capacity, you might be fine.

Most homes never pull their full panel capacity. Your heat pump doesn't run at full blast while you're cooking dinner and charging your car. If your electrician says you're at 85-90% capacity, that's often manageable without an upgrade. But if you're hitting 100%+, you need more capacity.

What About Permits and Inspections?

Required everywhere. No exceptions.

Panel upgrades modify your home's electrical service, which means permits, inspections, and coordinating with your utility. Your electrician should handle this, but it adds 1-2 weeks to the timeline. Budget $200-500 for permit fees depending on your city.

Common questions

How do I know if I need an upgrade?

Look at your current panel. If it says 100A or 150A and you're adding major electric appliances (heat pump, EV charger, induction range), you probably need an upgrade. Have an electrician do a load calculation—it's usually free with a quote. They'll add up all your existing and planned loads to see if you have enough capacity.

Can I DIY this?

Absolutely not. Panel upgrades require working with live utility wires carrying 240V at 100+ amps. One mistake kills you. Plus, no permit office will approve owner-installed service upgrades. Hire a licensed electrician.

Will my utility charge more for a bigger service?

Sometimes. Some utilities charge a higher monthly service fee for 200A+ service. It's usually $5-15/month more. Check your utility's rate schedule before upgrading.

How long does the upgrade take?

The actual work? One day, maybe two. But permitting and utility coordination can take 2-4 weeks. Your power will be off for 4-8 hours during the install, so plan accordingly.

Should I upgrade before or after installing a heat pump/EV charger?

Before. You can't safely install high-draw equipment on an undersized panel. Get the panel upgrade done first, then add your other upgrades. Most electricians will quote the whole project together, which can save money.

What if my panel is full but properly sized?

You might not need a full upgrade—just a subpanel. If you have a 200A main panel but all the breaker slots are full, an electrician can add a 100A subpanel in your garage or basement for $800-1,500. Way cheaper than replacing the main.

Are there rebates for panel upgrades?

Fewer than there were. The 25C credit that covered up to $600 of a panelboard expired for property placed in service after 31 December 2025, and it never applied to a standalone service upgrade anyway: the panel had to be installed alongside other qualifying work. State-administered HEAR rebates still exist in some states and can cover a large share for income-qualified households, but availability and budget vary and several programmes are oversubscribed. Budget the full cost and treat a rebate as a bonus.